Surfing Journal

Today was one of those rare and special Sundays, when the groundswell comes rolling in at more than three feet, and the weather conditions are such that the entire session seems as if it is a dream. A faint on-shore breath of South East wind left the ocean surface barely affected, so that the waist–high wave faces assumed the text book, glassy appearance that every surfer dreams about. The clouds, a pastel blend of pink, lilac and burnt orange spread lazily, darkening, as the bloodshot eye sank steadily below its Western rim.

The drops, though not particularly difficult, were steep enough to afford the necessary speed for an extended ride, as the waves were closing out fairly quickly, so beating the section made for exciting rides.

I enjoyed several rights - one seemed to go for at least a hundred yards! then I slid into a long tubing left. I got tubed twice on two shorter rights, and executed a nice off-the-lip, which plunged me down into the dumping soup. Water temperature was around 74 Fahrenheit. Air temperature seemed to be about the same. Wore shorts and rashguard. Beautiful end to a day.